Like sand
through an hour glass these are the days of the vines. Last we left you in the
vineyard we were pruning. Ok, we were not pruning but we were watching,
listening, and learning. As we have said the work in the vineyard never stops.
Since then we have been bottling and now it’s back out to the vineyard to see what’s
going on. It is now a couple weeks into May here in California and we have met up
with Mark Pisoni of Pisoni Vineyards at their beautiful Santa Lucia Highlands
vineyard in Monterey California.
Currently
the vines are growing like weeds and we are in the middle of flowering. These
little future bunches of grapes are some of what will end up in your glass. As
the vines grow the grape clusters go through set and then veraison. Veraison is
when the grapes begin changing color and softening- it is the onset of ripening. It is then that the careful selection of the bunch’s
to keep and the ones to drop will be made. But we are getting ahead of
ourselves.
Each
region, each vineyard and each variety has its own needs and the way the vines
are treated to grow the best grapes for any given area have differences. With
that in mind Mark Pisoni was gracious enough to tell us about what is currently
going on in his family's famous Pinot Noir vineyards.
Early
spring brings the period we call “great growth” in the vineyard, because the
new shoots grow like gangbusters. Depending on temperatures, 40–80 days
after bud break the process of flowering begins with small flower clusters
appearing on the tips of the young shoots looking like buttons. Flowering
occurs when average daily temperatures stay between 15–20 °C (59–68 °F). We
sometimes imagine we can see the vines actually grow! This great growth
creates a lot of work in and around the vineyard, including weed cultivation and shoot thinning. The
shoot thinning is done by hand, and is like a post pruning. Once the
shoots are a few inches long, Mark can begin walking the vine rows to make sure
they’re developing well and also to look for signs of disease or nutrient
deficiencies. With every pass through the vineyard there is shoot tucking and
leaf pulling as well as general observation of the health of the vines. This
continues almost daily throughout the growing season.
Once
spring is in full swing one of the worries is the weather. Too much rain, high
winds or excess heat can impair pollination and or set. In the SLH region rain
fall typically ends in April and these dry spring conditions help to promote a
good “fruit set”.
The
largest challenges to set in the SLH are the very high winds that roar down the
valley every afternoon. These ocean
winds keep the appellation very cool and a great spot for growing Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay and Syrah. But these fierce winds can lead to a “poor set”.
Once the
crop is set the numbers of clusters are counted. Yes this again requires
someone in the vineyard actually counting each cluster
(bunch) of grapes. Of course, there’s not much that can be done about too few,
but if you count more clusters than is believed to allow them to ripen
properly, then the excess clusters are dropped to the ground right then and
there. Again a lot of hand TLC.
To help show you what we clumsily just tried to explain watch this video we took while talking to Mark Pisoni in the actual SLH vineyards.
Thanks to Mark Pisoni for indulging us and being a great sport. We look forward to visiting Mark in the vineyards again to check on the progress. Maybe around veraison. What do you think?
Happy Wine Adventures,
Cheers,
WineWalkabout
Kiwi & Koala
Starting to get the idea that having a vineyard may not be as romantic as I thought. Ha ha. Think I will just enjoy the wine.
ReplyDeleteSue
Awesome to hear from such a first hand perspective!
ReplyDelete